I dreamt of Ireland as a child; the weather was grey, the taverns packed with singing locals and the Guinness was free flowing. Outside the ocean raged like a demon bodhrán and the grass was saturated with hues of lime and evergreen. It stood clear in my mind long into adulthood. When my mother and I planned a trip to Ireland in the fall of 2006, I was eager to paint a literal translation of the memorable dream. We spent two weeks travelling in the west, driving from Cork to Rosscarbery to Killarney and finally landing in the town of Doolin. The four nights we spent in Doolin defined Ireland for me and with little effort reenacted my childhood reverie. 

Doolin
The famous Cliffs of Moher were a must-see for the both of us and good music a close second, so Doolin was a natural stop. The small fishing village is nestled in County Clare, only 8 km from the cliffs. Doolin is renowned as the traditional music capital of Ireland. Many famous traditional music artists started out here. Today, future fames find themselves studying the art in one of Doolin's three pubs: McDermott's, McGann's and O'Connor's.

Without much effort, I have the tendency of finding the world's most bohemian hideaways. The beauty of creative and artistic havens is that they can mean anything to anyone. To a budding musician, Doolin is the centre of "Trad" music. For a poet, it's a quiet corner of the world. For a mother and daughter looking to escape reality, Doolin was a quaint and honest reminder that life can move a little slower if you let the Atlantic breeze come at you head on. 

On our first full day in Doolin, we left our quaint B&B, Nellie Dee's, just north of the main strip and headed into town to explore the shops and pubs. It was wet and windy, but somehow it suited the town well. The town centre is one strip of shops and stores leading to the port.

A tiny thatched cottage perched on the edge of the Atlantic caught my eye as it boasted a sign "The last Music Café before America". Soaking wet and absolutely starving we popped in for a bite. It ended up being a music store/café featuring traditional Celtic music from across the globe. It is owned by Magnetic Music, one of the few Irish record label companies that choose to locate itself in the heart of traditional music rather than the heart of Dublin. 

"We are a record company that has produced about 40 CDs over the last 15 years. Part of the CDs you find in the shop are our own productions and the others we source from Celtic record companies, wholesalers all around the world and some also directly from artists living in our County," explains managing director, Petr Pandula. 

"If you visit our music café, you never know if you will bounce into a famous band, singer or songwriter. For many of them we are their favourite hideout when they are in the West of Ireland." 

Absolutely inspired by this café, we stopped by the music store selling instruments and I purchased a bodhrán, a traditional Irish drum. That night, we saw a live band play at McDermott's and my mother chatted up the bodhrán player for tips while I drank room-temperature Guinness.

The Cliffs of Moher
As one of Ireland's top visitor attractions, The Cliffs of Moher are on the cover of almost every tourism guide. Towering 700 feet above the Atlantic, the cliffs are among the highest in Europe.

Visitors can walk along the cliffs and enjoy the spectacular views of County Clare. The harsh winds make you feel somewhat insignificant, but undeniably alive. Walking along the edge of the cliff, tightly grasping the fence, my mother and I could barely hear each other speak as we looked out to see O'Brien's Tower, the Aran Islands, Galway Bay and a variety of birds nestled in as protection against the unforgiving ocean. 

While visiting there was a huge construction zone, which in February 2007 became the new interpretive centre, the Atlantic Edge. Built underground, the interpretive centre is designed to give the almost one million visitors a year a place to experience the cliffs, ocean, rock, surrounding lands and people in a warm, comfortable place. I am sorry we missed it, as I would have liked to learn more about the geology and the history of the cliffs. However I wouldn't trade my battle with the winds and heightened exhilaration for anything.

After visiting the cliffs, our Doolin visit came to end. On our last day we walked all the way to the Doolin port to watch the boats set out for the Aran Islands. We then ventured off through grassy fields, over a fence and along the harsh water's edge. Doolin proved to be everything my dream inspired: wet, green, windy and full of music and verve.

Other places to visit
Doolin Cave (Pol an Ionain). A network of caves that stretch from the centre of Doolin and end two miles to the north. It is home to The Great Stalactite, one of the largest known stalactites in the world with a length of 6.54 meters. 

Lahinch -- just south of Doolin, this small town is the surfer's paradise of Ireland since the 1960s. Wet suit recommended.

The Rock Shop -- This beautiful store and interpretive centre is a must see for geologists and stone collectors. Fossils, collectable rocks, semi-precious stones and rocks extracted from quarries in the region. I came home with a huge chunk of rose quartz and a polished sphere of Connemara marble.

Aran Islands -- Departing from the Doolin port, a passenger ferry takes you across to the Aran Islands. The Aran Islands have stunning views, rugged landscapes, ancient forts and other winding country roads. Bring some Gravol -- it's a rocky ride.