Colourful ammolite is a 75-million-year-old treasure

Crystalline blue skies, forests of deep green, fiery red Indian paintbrush wildflowers and a vibrant yellow sun -- nature paints the Canadian Rockies’ in radiant hues. Ammolite, a rare gemstone found only in southern Alberta, is imbued with these same brilliant colours.

Ammolite originates only in the Bearpaw Formation east of the Rockies. This gem is made from ammonites, shelled creatures that inhabited inland seas worldwide 75 million years ago. The seas dried, and as millennia passed shells buried in the earth became fossilized. But only in Alberta did ammonites transform into the gemstone ammolite.

Blackfoot Indians who gathered ammolite centuries ago believed the stone brought great fortune. In 1908 a Canadian Geological Survey team documented an ammolite find, but it wasn’t until the 1960s that the gem’s commercial potential began to be realized. Ammolite received official gem status in 1981 from the World Jewellery Confederation (CIJBO), and today is affectionately (but not officially) called Alberta’s gemstone because of its exclusive and historic ties to the province.

Calgary-based Korite International is the world's primary producer of ammolite gemstones, responsible for the majority of the supply. Korite opened the first ammolite mine and has been extracting this rare Canadian gem since 1983. Ammolite by Aurora, another Calgary company, began mining ammolite in 2002.

Both Korite and Aurora operate under license by the Government of Alberta and the auspices of the Royal Tyrell Museum. Their finished stones and lovely jewellery designs can be admired in shops throughout the Rockies and beyond.

Better ammolite retailers in the Canadian Rockies are happy to share their knowledge of ammolite history, mining and manufacturing. Banff’s Ammolite in the Rockies’ interpretive exhibit features a plasma screen presentation, manufacturing machines, whole fossils and wall displays alongside a selection of ammolite jewellery. The fossil-to-gem process, including works being made, is showcased during the Ammonite Factory tour in Canmore.

A soft gem, ammolite often needs to be reinforced with backing and capping. Delicate ammolite sheets can be strengthened with stabilizers, although sometimes ammolite fractured under the weight of the earth has sealed naturally and securely with carbonate.

Ammolite is available in three forms. ‘Natural’ ammolite is thick and not reinforced -- it must be handled with extra care. ‘Doublets’ are reinforced with a protective back, while ‘triplets’ also have a hard spinel or quartz cap on top. Triplets and doublets are the most common and durable forms of ammolite.

"Ammolite is pretty but fragile, so working with it takes patience," says Canmore goldsmith Susan Kun. She advises buyers to examine the back and sides of ammolite jewellery to make sure it’s properly finished, smooth and not too thin.

More colourful ammolites command a higher price. Orange and green are more common than blue and purple. Multicolor stones are rare and more expensive than ammolite with only one or two colours. Valuable stones have sharp, bright colours that show brilliantly when angled in all directions. Natural patterns and textures give ammolite a distinctive look, from smoothly lustrous to unique fissure motifs.

"Colour is usually a more important consideration for customers than the setting, although they complement each other," says Elaine Tang of Cascade Gifts. At Freya’s Jewellery, clients can select the loose ammolite gemstone they like most and consult with a goldsmith to determine how it will be set. "I use the shape of the stone for inspiration," says Lorne Langevin, whose creations include a long 5-stone pendant and a ‘'ish’ with bubbles.

Philippe of Banff owner and master goldsmith Philippe Plourde notes that purchasing ammolite is more than an exercise in choosing colors and surface characteristics. “We create a lasting and passionate memory for customers, and give them the opportunity to take home a piece of Canadian history.”

While most people associate ammolite with jewellery, the gemstone is not always bought to be worn. Claire Jones of the Ammonite Factory notes a growing interest in art pieces, whole fossils or large chunks of polished ammolite that can be displayed like sculptures.

Kun concludes: "Ammolite selection is personal. Different stones talk to different people." So choose carefully, and pick the ammolite that’s right for you.